My Skin Barrier Journey

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR MY BEAUTIES!!! 

So on the 4th December 2020 I started to notice that my skin barrier was damaged and that it was very likely that over-exfoliating was the cause. Prior to this I'd been using the Corx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser and alternating it with The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% for about 6 weeks. After a month I realised that the cleanser was stripping my skin so I started using in once a week instead. However, by then the damage had already been done so my only choice was to cut it out of my routine completely :( The reason I think I was over-exfoliating is because Lactic Acid is an AHA and the cleanser contained Betaine Salicylate which is a derative of BHA. These are both exfoliating acids which speed up cell turnover by getting rid of dead skin cells. However, the general rule if you have sensitive skin is that you shouldn't exfoliate more than 3-4 times a week as this can potentially irritate your skin, leading to a compromised skin barrier. Unfortunately it took me 4 weeks to realise that, because of the betaine salicylate in the cleanser, I was exfoliating way more than necessary. 

This then led to me having red, irritated skin and small bumps after applying my evening skincare. As a result of the irritation and damaged barrier my skin became dehydrated. This happens as a result of Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) which is the process our skin goes through where we lose the water/hydration in our skin overnight. However with the right products we can restore our water-oil balance and prevent this from happening. But if your barrier is damaged then your skin is more likely to become dehydrated. I've also discovered that you can't have hydration without moisture, which is why you need to focus on both in order to strengthen your skin barrier and reverse the damage. Ingredients to look for when repairing your barrier include: ceramides, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, centella asiatica, glycerin, aloe vera, squalane and niacinamide. Basically humectants and natural moisturising factors. The difference between hydration and moisture are that one is water based and the other is oil based. The reason you need hydration is to keep the skin plump and healthy along with moisture to lock all that water into the skin, which then prevents TEWL from occuring. So as you can see all these things have a direct impact on each another and are part of the endless cycle that our skin goes through on a daily basis.

In this next section I will be taking you through the steps I took in order to strengthen and repair my skin barrier...

 Step 1- Cut out all actives and fragrance

Firstly, I removed my Lactic Acid 5% and Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% from my routine. However I decided to keep niacinamide for it's hydrating and anti-inflammatory benefits. I also swapped my Hydro Boost Water Gel and Sleeping Cream for the Cerave Moisturising Lotion. This is because they were fragranced and Cerave contains ceramides which are known to strengthen the skin's barrier. After 2 weeks I noticed that my skin was less irritated and starting to calm down.

Step 2- Started Purito Centella Unscented Serum

After 2 weeks I decided to add the Purito Centella Unscented Serum to try and calm and soothe my irritated skin. It also contains niacinamide which I already used in The Ordinary niacinamide serum and it seemed to work well for me. However the second night of using it my skin started to flare up again which confused me as I've used both centella and niacinamide in my routine before with no issues. My skin was also becoming oilier at night which made me think that I was using too much niacinamide and my skin was becoming sensitised to it. I also purchased the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Toner as my Benton one wasn't giving me enough hydration and moisture.

Step 3- Cut out all niacinamide serums (Purito & The Ordinary)

After a week of using the Purito serum I decided to remove both niacinamide serums from my routine. I also purchased the LRP Cicaplast Baume that's very popular on Youtube and the Skincare Addiction subreddit for being soothing and repairing for the skin. Although it's a thick texture I only use a small amount on my face and neck and it seems to do the trick! So far it hasn't clogged my pores which I worry about as I have oily and acne prone skin. At first it feels very greasy on the skin but after half an hour or so it starts to sink in.

Step 4- Started the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Toner

The day after I started the Cicaplast Baume I received the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Toner in the post. I used it the same night and didn't have any reaction to it other than a few red bumps but nothing too crazy. It has a lovely viscous texture to it and spreads really nicely onto damp skin. I've heard that hyaluronic acid works best on damp skin because it draws hydration from its environment and binds it to the skin for maximal hydration. I've been using it for a week now and my skin seems to drink it up! I think I even prefer it to my Benton Deep Green Tea Toner, I'm enjoying it that much :)

My Barrier Repair Routine:

AM: 

• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
• Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Toner
• Simple Age Resisting Eye Cream
• Cerave Moisturising Lotion
• Purito Centella Unscented Sun 

PM:

• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
• Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Toner
• Simple Age Resisting Eye Cream
• LRP Cicaplast Baume

The next step is to gradually reintroduce actives into my routine again. I'm going to start with Ascorbyl Glucoside which I plan to use every other day for a week and see how my skin responds. If all goes well I will then start rebuilding my skin's tolerance to Lactic Acid by using it once the first week, twice the second and maybe work towards 3 times a week (if my skin can handle it). The final step will be to add niacinamide back into my routine which I'm slightly nervous about as I'm hoping that my skin hasn't become completely sensitised to it :/ Fingers crossed it hasn't as it's worked so well for me in the past. 

I will be posting a follow up to let you know how it goes with reintroducing actives again, so watch this space!

Who Cares, We Care, Skincare :)